Persistence--Hautacam

I grew up with a quote stuck to our refrigerator which read, “That which ye persist in doing becomes easier. Not that the nature of the task has changed. But your ability to do so has been increased.” That about sums up the last ride of the trip. Instead of following the flat route of the Tour today, we “spun” our legs out on a 54km ride with an hors categorie climb--the threatening Hautacam.

Hautacam is 13km, almost 4,000 feet, avg. grade 8%, with a max of 15%. I actually felt stronger on this ride than any other, even though it was at the end of the week--probably because the last two days were so miserable, riding in decent conditions felt easy. We climbed from the valley floor near Argeles Gazost, to the top of the Col in a little under an hour and a half. One of the memorable points today on the ride up was I noticed a small rock, probably 1/4” round on the left lane near the exit of a turn. I remember thinking that you probably wouldn’t want to run over it on the way down. Sure enough, I hit that exact rock and heard it ping off my tire. No flat, and I laughed at the coincidence of it all. I guess when my life is reduced to thinking of pebbles, it is time to go home.

What to think of the week? Sublime. It was an amazing experience, full of incredible highs and real emotional and physical lows. I didn’t expect such a range of emotions from riding my bike.

Jess and Marko were great riding partners. Happy 40th Jess--thanks Mary Alice.

Livestrong--Last Day of Tourmalet

Some people are born strong. Some people train to be strong. Others live strong. Today, all I can think about is my nieces Claire and Lyla, and Kim Harris. These people fight to live every day, and millions others like them are an inspiration. I'm lucky. I am riding for something else today, something that actually matters.

On the road up the Tourmalet, at least a mile long, a "ChalkBot" painted messages from the Livestrong foundation--motivational thoughts about survival, will, strength, and drive. (go to Nike Chalkbot to see the images to give you a sense of what I am talking about) We saw the same messages up Soulor yesterday. Riding up the hill and reading the people's names, messages and thoughts kept my mind somewhere else. It felt like you were riding through a memorial, but with living names and people still fighting through life.

We had an early start, as we needed to get up to the climb of the Tourmalet by 11:00, before the road closed for the last stage. Today was about as miserable as it gets--we rode in 50 degree weather, and torrential/monsoon rain, thunder and lighting for several hours. The rain was coming down the road like a river. It was cold, sopping, and draining, but the ride felt epic.

We had to stay up near the summit from midday until around 5:00pm, so the cold only got worse with the wait. There were tens of thousands of people up on the mountain, and I am anxious to watch the footage as the crowds were crazy given the terrible conditions. Fortunately our guides had a trailer parked up there for the past week, which provided for some shelter from the elements, but all my stuff was soaked and I could never warm up.

This was the last of our big stages for the week, and tomorrow, weather willing, we will probably ride up one more HC climb Hautacam. JRH--the stage victory was all yours today.

Soup d'Aubisque

It was tough to get up today, and face another big day of climbing. Today was a rest day on the Tour, so we decided to do a few more of the classic climbs, and one that we missed yesterday. The weather today, opposite from the rest of the week, was awful at the top of the mountains.

We climbed the east side of Col d'Aubisque, which is after Col de Soulour, which in itself is a 1800ft 12km 9% grade hors categorie climb. Tomorrow, the Tour route is back up Soulour, down into the valley and then back up the Tourmalet. From the top of the Soulour, there is another 10.6km, gaining another 700 feet to the top of the d'Aubisque. The road from the top of Soulor runs along cliffs, and honestly I was glad that you could not see down the side of the mountain--over the roadside was just mist and air. We had about 30 feet of visibility. There are a few short tunnels, one about 100yds long and no lights, so you ride through a wet cave blind. All you could hear climbing through the mist was the sounds of goats and cowbells in the distance. By the time we got to the top, I was freezing cold and obviously completely drenched head to foot. So much for my white cycling shoes--they are ruined from the wet black asphault. If you know me, I hate dirty shoes--oh well.

The descent was not fun--an epic ride-I had uncontrollable shakes from the cold. It was raining so hard, you could not see clearly through the glasses. We got to the bottom of the climb in Argeles Gazost, and had around 25km+ to make it back to Lourdes. We joined a group of riders from other countries, and rode in a peloton at incredible speeds all the way back. Riding in a large group flying through the little towns was thrilling.

We rode around 110km on the rest day, and are getting prepped for tomorrow's last climbs in the Pyrenees and up the west side of Tourmalet. The weather should be awful--forecast of torrential rains all day. Should be an exciting finish at the top of the mountain.

Jess--Cooked and Bonked

This captures the feeling of finishing in Lourdes tonight, after nearly an entire day of climbing. This ride is Jess' 40th birthday present--the greatest gift ever.

King of the Mountain--Not up in Here--Tourmalet

I sported the polka dot jersey today, the jersey reserved for the top climber--I wasn't worthy of it. The highlight of the ride today was the Col du Tourmalet. The Tourmalet is the most famous climb in the Tour, and has been included in more Tours than any other climb. It is the highest road in the central Pyrenees. Approaching from the east, through La Mongie, this is a 3,900ft hors categorie climb, over 17.2km, 7.4% average grade, max at 10%. On each of these climbs, there are signs at every km, marked to show what the gradient is for the next km, and your altitude. Every time you see >8% for the next km, you just simply expect to put your head down and grind.

We did not expect to get to the top of the Tourmalet, as the gendarmie shut down the road up to the top early in the morning. I was not about to be denied my summit quest, so hiking past the guards, we made it on towards the top of the Col. We sat at the summit in a 100+ year old stone house/bar, watching the TV coverage of the climbers, and having the best spaghetti carbonara ever. This was the third climb of the day, with one more HC climb up the Aubisque for the stage. So many of the riders suffered, as the sun just bakes down on the upper slope with no protection. My hands are white from my gloves--my arms and legs are fried and burned.

We descended down the western slope of the Tourmalet, which the riders will climb back up on Thursday. We were not able to climb the Aubisque because the road was closed, so we substituted the last climb for another HC climb--Luz Ardiden.

Luz Ardiden is 14.7km, 3000 foot category 1-2 climb, with an average gradient of 6.9% and max 10%. This is the climb where in 2003 Lance Armstrong fell, after having his handlebars caught by a spectator's handbag. He went on to win the stage vs Basso. The brutal part of the climb is simply when you get out of the trees, and see how much climbing you have left--demoralizing to say the least. For me, this was heads down the entire way--I was soaked with sweat at the top.

While the climbs were brutal, once we descended back down Ardiden, we thought we only had 12km back to Lourdes--our hotel for the night--wrong--30km and a headwind. The ride back to town was killer.

I am among the walking dead tonight--would not be surprised to see me getting pushed by a nun in my bed tomorrow to Le Grotte...

The Need for Speed--Descent Tourmalet

This is a picture from the top of the Tourmalet, looking down the western side. We rode down this road today, after the summit of the Tourmalet from the east. Thursday, the riders will climb the western slope and finish at the top of the Tourmalet, likely determining the outcome of the yellow jersey. This particular descent was crazy fast--probably 50 mph easy. A release of the brakes, and your speed climbs radically.

Hors Categorie--Port de Bales

Hors categorie is a French term used in cycling to designate a climb that is beyond categorization. The term was originally used for those mountain roads where cars were not expected to be able to pass. We did our first today. It’s hard to describe the intimidation of these mountains, and I think yesterday just psyched me out. I’m back, with my wits collected. We started early in the morning to ensure we got a place on the final climb today--one of the biggest climbs of this year’s Tour. Port de Bales, a 19.7km 4,000 foot elevation beyond category (HC) climb, with an average grade of 8%, and in places 14%. Before we joined the main route, we climbed Col du Portillon, a 9km 2500 foot climb with an average grade of 8%, a small warm-up to the bigger Port de Bales climb. Arriving at the top of Portillon, on the border of France, a frenchman coming up the opposite direction, warned us of wild horses and slick horse maneur on a few turns. It took us several minutes to understand what he was saying.

While Tourmalet will get all the attention, Port de Bales is longer and steeper than Tourmalet, which we will climb in both directions, once tomorrow, and then again on Thursday. Anything above 8% requires all your power and strength to get any forward motion, and when it is sustained, your heart rate gets pegged.

There were thousands of people lining the Port de Bales today--many camped for days to get the best spots. Climbing up through the throngs of people, with painted roads and crazed fans is truly awesome. You get a little extra strength when you hear the cheers. We arrived in our viewing area, just 1km below the summit, and waited for the main field. If you watched today, just below us Schleck lost his chain, and Contador attacked, and added 15 seconds or so on the climb, and another 24 seconds on the descent to capture the yellow jersey.

We sat on the sun-baked hills for a better part of the afternoon. The caravan of sponsors blows through about an hour and half before the riders, throwing out schwag--shirts, hats, food, water, keyhains, out to a rabid set of fans. You know the riders are coming when you hear the helicopters, and we could see them coming up from the valley below. Once to the top, we had a 25km descent to the Bagneres du Luchon finish. The descent is so crazy--incredible speeds and baked slick pavement--you have to be very attentive, as a crash is something you don’t want to do.

Tomorrow is the biggest total elevation gain of our week--I think somewhere around 11,000, where today was slightly over 7,000.

El Diablo

We met the famous El Diablo today. He was not allowed up to the summit, as he has apparently sold out his brand to sponsors. I am sure we will see him again. Here’s the picture.

Humility in the Pyrenees

OK--so today was the first day, a 30 mile ride, with 3,300 feet of climbing--just a warm-up as we join the main route of the tour tomorrow. We are in Vielha Spain for two days and then back to Lourdes as the tour circles the mountain passes in the region--the 100th year of the Pyrenees in the Tour. Training for 6 months, and the first day seemed to smack me in the face. I guess riding around New Canaan, CT and spinning at the Wall Street Equinox doesn’t totally prepare one for some serious mountain climbing. What was I thinking? Pride is now properly checked at the door, and I settle in on the realization that just completing the week will be a huge success. Losing some precious seconds on the final climb to our 3 main wolf-pack does not build confidence! My motivation will be the support I feel from my wife and kids from the other side of the world. Sometimes in running marathons, the only thing that you think about are those that are waiting at the finish--and it gets you through to the end. Only strange highlight of the day, was a hint from our guide to take a left at the bear in Arties--and he was right, there was a literal bear in a fenced pen on the side of the road.

Stage 15 waits tomorrow, Town of Bagneres finish, and a few major climbs over Port de Bales, Col du Portillon and potentially Col de Peyresourde. We don’t ride all of the course because of road access, but will do all of the major climbs, sometimes on different days as the main field.

Lourdes--The Torchlight Procession

A fitting start to the week took place this evening in Lourdes, the first stop on the eve of our first ride into the Pyrenean mountains. Lourdes is a small foothill town, famous for a water grotto and the free floating apparition of Mary that appeared to Bernadette Soubirous in 1858. Lourdes is a major place of pilgrimage and alleged miraculous healings derived from a pure source of water which comes out of the grotto. Of course, I had to take a drink and preserve some water for later, and also decided that all water bottles this week must be constituted with Cyto-Grotto. We had the chance to participate in the Torchlight Marian Procession, where thousands of people from around the world walked around the square of Rosary Basilica at sundown. Hundreds of worshippers and pilgrims in hand-drawn wheelchairs and or lying in beds with wheels were rolled around the square. The crowd of thousands recited the rosary and sang the Lourdes Hymn while carrying paper shaded candles. Truly interesting to behold, and you could feel the faith and devotion of the people there.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sanctuary_of_Our_Lady_of_Lourdes#The_Grotto

So tonight, with grotto water dried on my thighs, I dream of tomorrow's first ride in the mountains.

Cycling Prep Links

Just a few sites I found interesting and used for prep for this ride.

The tour company is backroads.com.
I bought most of my gear from coloradocyclist.com and procyclegear.com.
I used a high-altitude training system (sleep high and train low)--yes sleeping in a tent from
hypoxico.com.
For another blog, but I will have honey powering me from my hive brushymountainbeefarm.com.

Overview of the Stages/Riding Schedule

To give you a sense of the riding, this is the estimated schedule:

Sunday, Race Stage 14: Revel to Ax3 DomainesMonday, Race Stage 15: Pamiers to Bagnères-de-Luchon (75 miles 8,630 feet elevation gain)
Tuesday, Race Stage 16: Bagnères-de-Luchon to Pau (100 miles 11,140 feet elevation gain)
Wednesday, Race Rest Day: Col d' Aubisque (62 miles 4,450 feet elevation gain)
Thursday, Race stage 17: Pau to Col du Tourmalet (60 miles 5,630 feet elevation gain)
Friday, Race Stage 18: Salies-de-Béarn to Bordeaux (640 feet elevation gain)

The biggest test will be Stage 16, which is set up to be the most grueling and historic of this year's race, with a series of vicious passes--Col de Peyresourde, d'Aspin, du Tourmalet and d'Aubisque, before finishing in Pau.